Ka Leo O Hawaii

Gary Sanchez * Ka Leo O Hawai'i Senior marketing major Vince Solivan and Art major Lena Mochimaru check out "Theatre de la Mode," which features 9 dramatic theater sets and over 150 miniature mannequins. [Click to enlarge]

Miniature mannequins dressed in silk ball gowns, embedded with jewels, wearing tiny high heels are displayed at the University of Hawai'i-Manoa Art Gallery's "Theatre de la Mode" (Theatre of Fashion).

Mannequins are dressed in fashions from the 18th century to the 1940s. "Theatre de la Mode" is a collection from the Maryhill Museum of Art Goldendale, Washington.

The outfits are considered to be artifacts. Some of the mannequins wear furs that are derived from extinct birds. The hair contents are also real.

"This has meaning, this is the fantasy of fashion," said Kathy Wood, a student who helped design the set.

The clothing is authentic, from top designers who were well known then, and top designers who exist today.

Each mannequin is fitted with meticulous design costumes and accessories of the period. In fact, the clothing on the mannequins is so valuable that a professional curator was hired to make sure the fabric was handled properly.

Students and members of the university community are encouraged to visit the Theatre de la Mode, the largest and most expensive display in UH history.

"I would suggest that students definitely come and see it; this is important and it's a rare opportunity," said Tom Klobe, director of the Art Gallery. "I think that one of the important things is it says a lot about the mid-20th century — the human endeavor to survive."

Klobe added, "Because Paris had been devastated by World War II and the occupation of the Nazis, this exhibition became sort of a symbol."

Klobe said that even though he and another professor thought of bringing the exhibition to UH far in advance, he didn't realized it would be in the midst of war and tragedy in our own country.

"I think that this is a good example of what the arts can do — what creative people do to show that we must carry on. We cannot give up," Klobe said. "(The French) weren't going to give up, the fashion industry wasn't going to give up, and Paris was going to remain the center of it."

The History

Theatre de la Mode started during the period after World War II to raise funds for French war relief.

Many were tired of the long war, and its shortages in rationing. The Nazis were gone from France, but while the country was still in the midst of recovery, they needed a symbol. Some suffered from the lack of food, clothing and fuel. The winter of 1945 was the turning point for some of the French.

The fashion industry was desperate to reassert itself, and the people needed to gain back their self esteem. This fed some of the finest French designers of that time with a strong desire to contribute.

With a lack of materials, the artists created elegant miniature fashion mannequins, setting them in elaborate hand-painted stages.

The people were excited to see the fabulous works and creations from some of the best designers of that era. The mannequins represented the fashion society. French couture (sewing and dressmaking) houses contributed to the exhibition.

At times, the designers would engage in friendly competition by trying to add nontraditional handmade accessories.

The Theatre de la Mode has been displayed in various places in the world including the Luv in Paris, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Fashion Foundation in Tokyo, The Portland Museum of Art in Oregon, the Baltimore Museum of Art in Maryland and the Lowe Art Museum in Miami, Florida.

Now the exhibition is here at the University of Hawai'i, yet adding to another moment in fashion history.

"These are the kinds of things that Princess Diana would wear," Wood said. "Designers at that period would send these small mannequins to say — a queen, so that she could see the latest style and fashion."

Article Tools